Text and photos by Dezmond Kochis
For most people, losing everything in a hurricane would be the most painful moment of their lives, but for Eric Roldan, it was just another hurdle to overcome.
He was living in San Juan, capital city of Puerto Rico, in 2017 when Hurricane Maria made landfall. “I pretty much lost everything,” said Roldan, describing his situation following the disaster. The deadliest hurricane in Puerto Rican history had spared his life, but now he was rebuilding it all with no blueprint.
This wasn’t Roldan’s first encounter with adversity. He lost his mother at the age of 10. He refers to her as his “inspiration” — her words “Make me proud” have guided him in everything he does.
Marina’s Bistro and Rum Bar is the result of that inspiration. Born in Chicago, Roldan returned in 2018 following Hurricane Maria to pursue opening his restaurant, which bears his late mother’s name and serves traditional Puerto Rican cuisine along with a selection of rum-based cocktails.
Opening first as a ghost kitchen out of Avondale, Roldan decided on a brick-and-mortar location after winning the Chicago Recovery Grant in August 2022. While this began a new and exciting chapter for Marina’s, it also brought headaches. “Dealing with the city,” responded Roldan when asked about the most difficult part of the transition.
Marina’s intended to open in January 2023, but permitting and grant disbursement delays pushed those plans back to August.
Nestled between a shawarma shop and a Subway franchise in the Magnolia Ave. strip mall, Roldan says Marina’s Uptown location is a deliberate choice. “I lived here,” he said when discussing his roots in the neighborhood. “Uptown is very diverse,” but he says a distinct lack of Puerto Rican cuisine led him to choose the area over a more traditionally Puerto Rican neighborhood.
On the two-block stroll from the Wilson red-line stop you’ll eventually find the inviting smells of fragrant garlic and roasting pork. While these delicious smells could be coming from any of the eclectic restaurants in the area, as you step through the custom black wood-paneled door it becomes clear that Marrina’s is the source.
Once inside, Chef Roldan’s vision and attention to detail become even more apparent: You’ll be met with festive traditional Puerto Rican music that instantly transports you to the streets of San Juan. Marina’s has been decorated with mirrors designed to mimic the Spanish mission-style and Puerto Rican inspired light fixtures adorned with faux leaves complemented by warm beige and orange colors adorning the walls throughout.
Chef Roldan and his staff have cultivated a kind and welcoming environment at Marina’s. Roldan, a proud member of the LGBTQ+ community, was inspired by his “tough” upbringing, during which he was not always fully accepted by his family, to show empathy instead.
When you look over the menu, the fruity Puerto Rican-inspired drinks may catch your eye, such as the “El Chilin,” a mocktail blending the flavor of pineapple, coconut and orange into a refreshing beverage that complements the salty complimentary crispy plantain chips served with vegan guava butter that you’ll probably already be snacking on.
The smells of savory meats begin to get overwhelming, and you’ll find yourself ready to dive into the menu featuring traditional dishes such as mofongo, a savory Puerto Rican delicacy made from fried plantains and yuca mashed with garlic and served with a marinated roast pork called lechón.
The menu at Marina’s is about much more than food, though. “Most of the recipes come from her,” said Roldan while discussing how his mother’s traditional Puerto Rican recipes are the basis for the entire menu, albeit with a few twists and tricks from Roldan himself to spice things up.
One thing you will not find at Marina’s is “Camarones al ajillo,” a Puerto Rican dish translated into “garlic shrimp” in English. “I don’t know if this will ever make it onto the menu,” said Roldan, fighting back tears while recounting a story of him cooking with his mother as a child before noting that it may be “Too personal.”
Patron Candice Melendez said “The décor alone is worth the experience itself, but their authentic Puerto Rican food & rum drinks never cease to amaze me … There’s really no other restaurant in the city like Marina’s.”
A new Happy Hour will run every Wednesday in June from 4 to 6 p.m. to celebrate Pride month, featuring $10 Caribbean cocktails, at 4554 N. Magnolia Ave. The restaurant is open from 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 12 to 10 p.m. Friday through Sunday, and is closed on Monday.
The UPTOWN EXCHANGE 